January 10, 2018

Fox Beanie (knit)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"
      I truly hope that this beanie grabs your attention and gets a top place in your collection of knit beanies. You can comfortably wear it during any season depending on the yarn you used and the weather, of course.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
This beanie fits someone with a head circumference of...
20.5" to 21" (child or teen) and
21.5" to 22.5" (adult/women)

MATERIALS
*DPN's or Circular needles: 8.0mm (US11)
*Crochet hook size: 8.0mm (L) [its use for a tiny bit on the ears]
*Super Bulky weight yarn: Terracota (50yds), Cream (9yds) & Black (4yds)
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread

GAUGE
5stitches & 12rows in seed stitch = 2 inches
Don't forget to check your gauge.

PATTERN NOTES - must read...
  Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
  Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
  You're able to easily customize the beanie by casting on multiples of 2 + 1.

STARTING the BEANIE with terracota
CO 45 stitches with the 8mm needles (45sts)
Place a marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
  Rnd 1: k1, *p1, k1*, repeat from * to * around (45sts)
  Rnd 2: p1, *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * around (45sts)
Rounds 1 and 2 are repeats rounds.
Continue repeating these rounds 'til your piece measures 4.75 inches (approx. a total of 26 rounds) or you have reached the desired length.

NOTE: In the beginning of each round, its indicated in red or blue that sections that will be repeated throughout that round. Simply follow the color of the asterisks (red or blue) to know exactly what to continue repeating.
SHAPING the CROWN
  Rnd 27: k1, *p1, k1* repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog, p1, *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to * 3 more times, k2tog, p1, repeat from * to * 3 more times, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to * 3 more times, k2tog (40sts)
  Rnd 28: p1, *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 2 more times, p1, *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 3 more times, p1, repeat from * to * 3 more times, p1, repeat from * to * 4 more times, p1, repeat from * to * 3 more times, p1 (40sts)
  Rnd 29: *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog, *p1, k1* repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, k2tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, k2tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times, k2tog (35sts)
  Rnd 30: p1, *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 2 more times, *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 2 more times, p2, repeat from * to * 3 more times, repeat from * to * 3 more times, p2, repeat from * to * 3 more times (35sts)
  Rnd 31: k1, *p1, k1* repeat from * to * 1 more time, k2tog, p1, *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 1 more time, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog, p1, repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog (30sts)
  Rnd 32: p1, *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 1 more times, p1, *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 2 more times, p1, repeat from * to * 2 more times, p1, repeat from * to * 3 more times, p1, repeat from * to * 2 more times, p1 (30sts)
  Rnd 33: *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 1 more time, k2tog, *p1, k1* repeat from * to * 1 more time, k2tog, repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog, repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog, repeat from * to * 2 more times, k2tog (25sts)
  Rnd 34: *p1, k1* repeat from * to * 1 more time, p1, *k1, p1* repeat from * to * 1 more time, p1, repeat from * to * 2 more times, p1, repeat from * to * 2 more times, p1, repeat from * to * 2 more times, p1 (25sts)
  Rnd 35: *k1, p1, k1, k2tog*, *p1, k1, p1, k2tog*, repeat from * to * 1 time, repeat from * to * 1 time, repeat from * to * 1 time (20sts)
  Rnd 36: *p1, k1, p2*, *k1, p1, k1, p1*, repeat from * to * 1 time, repeat from * to * 1 time, repeat from * to * 1 time (20sts)
  Rnd 37: k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, k1, k2tog, k1, p1, k2tog (15sts)
  Rnd 38: p1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, p1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, p1, k2tog (10sts)
  Rnd 39: *k2tog* repeat from * to * 4 more times (5sts)
Leave a long tail (around 8"). You will use a tapestry needle to thread the tail through the last remaining stitches on your needles. After that remove the needles from the stitches and pull tightly to close the top hole. Lastly, hide the tail inside of the hat and weave it in.

NOTE: The ears are worked all in one piece and then folded in half.
EARS starting with terracota; make 2
CO 1 stitch with the 8mm needles (1st)
  Row 1: kfb (2sts)
  Row 2: knit across (2sts)
  Row 3: kfb, kfb (4sts)
  Row 4: knit across (4sts)
  Row 5: kfb, p2, kfb (6sts)
  Row 6: kfb, k4, kfb (8sts)
  Row 7: kfb, p6, kfb (10sts)
  Row 8: knit across (10sts)
  Row 9: purl across (10sts)
  Row 10: knit across (10sts)
  Row 11: purl across (10sts)
  Row 12: knit across (10sts)
  Row 13: purl across (10sts)
  Row 14: purl across (10sts)
Change to the cream color yarn.
  Row 15: purl across (10sts)
  Row 16: knit across (10sts)
  Row 17: purl across (10sts)
  Row 18: knit across (10sts)
  Row 19: purl across (10sts)
  Row 20: knit across (10sts)
  Row 21: purl across (10sts)
  Row 22: k2tog, k6, k2tog (8sts)
  Row 23: p2tog, p4, p2tog (6sts)
  Row 24: k2tog, k2, k2tog (4sts)
  Row 25: purl across (4sts)
  Row 26: k2tog, k2tog (2sts)
  Row 27: purl across (2sts)
  Row 28: slip 1, psso
F/O and draw through the remaining stitch. Weave in the ends.
Fold the ear in half along row 14. Using the 8mm crochet hook and black yarn, single crochet along the entire ear to close it off. F/O, weave in all ends.
Another method you can use if you're not comfortable crocheting, use a tapestry needle and the black yarn; whip stitch along the entire ear to close it off.


ASSEMBLE
     I recommend pinning the pieces in place before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people like to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I personally like to use matching thread).
     EARS... place them between rounds 21 and 35 or the position you like best. You'll want to fold the sides of the ears a little bit in to make them look pointier.

GLOSSARY:
co: cast on || k: knit || p: purl || k2tog: knit 2 stitches together || p2tog: purl 2 stitches together
rnd/s: round/s || st/s: stitch/es || kfb: knit front and back || psso: pass slipped stitch over



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Have a nice knit time!
- Janet

This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (January 2018). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

December 11, 2017

Pikachu Slippers (child/teen size)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"
     Pikachu, I choose you! Make the right decision and make these adorable slippers. They'll bring so much joy and friendship to anyone that wears them. Pikachu promises to keep your feet warm no matter what battle faces you.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
These slippers fit someone with an 8.5" foot or a 3US Kids shoe size
You're able to easily customize the slippers by adding less or more rounds/rows to fit someone with a smaller or larger foot (indications on how to do so are below on row 15-24).

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.75mm (F) or size needed to obtain gauge
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Yellow (155yds) & Black (8yds)
*Felt: Black, White & Red
*Fiberfill (optional)
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue

GAUGE 8stitches x 5rows = 2"
Don't forget to check your gauge.

PATTERN NOTES - must read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There's no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 Always do the 1st stitch where you slip stitch from the previous round.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
 You slip stitch on the first st, not on top of the chains.

SLIPPER with yellow; make 2
  Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring, sl st into 1st st (5)
  Rnd 2: ch2, 2dc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (10)
  Rnd 3: ch2, 2dc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (20)
  Rnd 4: ch2, *2dc in next st, dc in next st* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (30)
  Rnd 5: ch2, *2dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (35)
  Rnd 6-13: ch2, dc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (35)
  Row 14: ch2, dc in next 24sts, ch2, turn (24)
  Row 15-24: dc in each st across, ch2, turn (24) in the last row, do not turn your work.
You can make the slippers smaller or larger by simply making fewer rows or adding more rows at this point.
  Rnd 25: ch1 and sc along the top as indicated in the picture below but in each corner put 2sc. This will give the slippers a finished look.
  Rnd 26: ch1, sc in each st around
F/O and leave about a 36" strand of yarn (it will be used for sewing the back of the slipper together in the assembling process).

EARS starting with black; make 4
  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in each st around (4)
  Rnd 3: 2sc in next st, sc in next st around (6)
  Rnd 4: 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts around, in last st change to yellow (8)
  Rnd 5-11: sc in each st around (8)
  Rnd 12: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog around, sl st into 1st st (6)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.


ASSEMBLE
    I recommend pinning the pieces in place before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people like to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I personally like to use matching thread).
    TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on a white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.
     SLIPPERS...turn your slipper inside out. With a tapestry needle and by using the whip stitch seam, sew the back of the heel with the long strand of yarn we left. Secure and weave in the end.
     When sewing anything on booties or slippers, I like to stuff the front with tissue paper or fiberfill because this helps me to better sew the pieces in place and they won’t end up uneven. After everything has been sewn and/or glue in place just remove the tissue paper or fiberfill.
     EARS...you can stuff them lightly if you like or simply flatten them out. If you decide to flatten them, they won't be droopy at all. Place them diagonally on the 2 final rounds we made at the end of the slippers (round 25 & 26).
     EYES...using black felt make 2 circles and another 2 using white felt but make these much smaller. Place the black circles on round 10; approx. 1.25" apart. The tiny white circles go on the top of the black circles. Repeat the same process with the other slipper.
     CHEEKS...using red felt make 4 circles. You'll want them to be a bit bigger than the eyes (the black circles). Place them on round 8 and 9 just right beneath the eyes on the sides.
     MOUTH...using black thread or embroidery floss make the mouth in round 7. You can play around with it and make it however you like, the possibilities are endless. If you would like to make the mouth as shown in the main picture, follow these simple steps below (click on each image to enlarge).
     NOSE...just right above the mouth make a tiny vertical line with black thread or embroidery floss.

GLOSSARY:
ch/s:chain/s || sc: single crochet || dc: double crochet || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es || rnd: round || f/o: finish off



Don't forget to like this blog facebook fan page.
Or to follow our Instagram page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Pikachu and Pokémon are copyright by The Pokémon Company.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (December 2017). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.

December 8, 2017

Pikachu Slippers (toddler size)

By Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!"
     Pikachu, I choose you! Make the right decision and make these adorable slippers. They'll bring so much joy and friendship to anyone that wears them. Pikachu promises to keep your feet warm no matter what battle faces you.

SIZE/MEASUREMENTS
These slippers fit someone with an 5" foot or a 5.5c US Infants shoe size
You're able to easily customize the slippers by adding less or more rounds/rows to fit someone with a smaller or larger foot (indications on how to do so are below on row 11-15).

MATERIALS
*Crochet hook size: 3.75mm (F) or size needed to obtain gauge
*Worsted Weight Yarn: Yellow (80yds) & Black (6yds)
*Felt: Black, White & Red
*Fiberfill (optional)
*Stitch Markers to mark your rounds
*Tapestry Needle
*Matching Thread
*Hot Glue

GAUGE 8stitches x 5rows = 2"
Don't forget to check your gauge.

PATTERN NOTES - must read...
 Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round/row indicate the total number of stitches.
 Always use stitch markers to mark your rounds.
 There's no need to sl st and/or ch when going to the next round unless stated to do so.
 Always do the 1st stitch where you slip stitch from the previous round.
 The chain, in the beginning, does NOT count as one stitch unless stated otherwise.
 You slip stitch on the first st, not on top of the chains.


SLIPPER with yellow; make 2
  Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring, sl st into 1st st (5)
  Rnd 2: ch2, 2dc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (10)
  Rnd 3: ch2, 2dc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (20)
  Rnd 4: ch2, *2dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts* repeat from * to * around, sl st into 1st st (25)
  Rnd 5-9: ch2, dc in each st around, sl st into 1st st (25)
  Row 10: ch2, dc in next 17sts, ch2, turn (17)
  Row 11-15: dc in each st across, ch2, turn (17) in the last row, ch1 and turn your work.
You can make the slippers larger by simply adding more rows at this point.
  Rnd 16: sc along the top as indicated in the picture below but in each corner put 2sc. This will give the slipper a finished look.
  Rnd 17: ch1, sc in each st around
F/O and leave about a 25" strand of yarn (it will be used for sewing the back of the slipper together in the assembling process).

EARS starting with black; make 4
  Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
  Rnd 2: sc in each st around (4)
  Rnd 3: 2sc in next st, sc in next st around, in last st change to yellow (6)
  Rnd 4-8: sc in each st around (6)
  Rnd 9: sc in next st, sc2tog around, sl st into 1st st (4)
F/O, secure and weave in the ends.


ASSEMBLE
    I recommend pinning the pieces in place before sewing them to make sure you have them in the position you like best before sewing. (Most people like to use the yarn at the end of the finished pieces to sew them in place, but I personally like to use matching thread).
    TIP...For anything that I’m going to be using felt, I like to first sketch it out on a white paper and make a stencil of what I need. Then cut it out. Then tape the stencil to the felt and cut it out.
     SLIPPERS...turn you slipper inside out. With a tapestry needle and by using the whip stitch seam, sew the back of the heel with the long strand of yarn we left. Secure and weave in the end.
     When sewing anything on booties or slippers, I like to stuff the front with tissue paper or fiberfill because this helps me to better sew the pieces in place and they won’t end up uneven. After everything has been sewn and/or glue in place just remove the tissue paper or fiberfill.
     EARS...you can stuff them lightly if you like or simply flatten them out. If you decide to flatten them, they won't be droopy at all. Place them diagonally on the 2 final rounds we made at the end of the slippers (round 16 & 17).
     EYES...using black felt make 2 circles and another 2 using white felt but make these much smaller. Place the black circles on round 7; approx. 1" apart. The tiny white circles go on the top of the black circles. Repeat the same process with the other slipper.
     CHEEKS...using red felt make 4 circles. You'll want them to be a bit bigger than the eyes (the black circles). Place them on round 5 and 6 just right beneath the eyes on the sides.
     MOUTH...using black thread or embroidery floss make the mouth in round 5. You can play around with it and make it however you like, the possibilities are endless.
     NOSE...just right above the mouth make a tiny vertical line with black thread or embroidery floss.

GLOSSARY:
ch/s:chain/s || sc: single crochet || dc: double crochet || sl st: slip stitch || st/s: stitch/es || rnd: round || f/o: finish off



Don't forget to like this blog facebook fan page.
Or to follow our Instagram page. :)

Have a nice crochet time!
- Janet

Pikachu and Pokémon are copyright by The Pokémon Company.
This pattern is an original pattern by Janet Carrillo "damn it Janet, let's crochet!" (December 2017). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use. Please do not resell or distribute it.